"Although the list of ingredients on cosmetic product packaging is visible to everyone, very few know how to read it. If you'd like to learn how to read the ingredients list, I’ve prepared a guide with examples just for you!"
THE ART OF READING COSMETIC INGREDIENT LISTS: WHAT SHOULD YOU PAY ATTENTION TO?

What is the INCI ingredients list in cosmetics?

Found on all cosmetic packaging, the ingredients list was established in 1973 by the Personal Care Products Council in the USA. It is also known as the "INCI ingredients list." The INCI system, which stands for "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients," ensures that all cosmetic manufacturers write the ingredients list in a standardized manner. INCI nomenclature is used in the United States, the European Union, China, Japan, and many other countries. With a few exceptions, INCI nomenclature is the same in all countries. The INCI list contains over 16,000 ingredients and the purpose of this list is to inform consumers and provide greater transparency regarding product components.

Is the ingredients list standardized?

The INCI ingredients list is standardized, and in all countries adhering to this list, ingredient names are written in the same format. For example, the ingredient list of a product manufactured in Europe and one produced in Turkey follows the same rules. According to the EU Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC, it is mandatory to specify the ingredient list of cosmetic products according to the INCI system. This requirement is also included in the Turkish Cosmetics Regulation.

How to read the ingredients list?

When reading an ingredients list, it’s important to know a few key details.

  • There is a specific order to the ingredients. The ingredients with the highest concentration appear at the top, while the ones with the lowest concentration are listed at the end. So, the first few ingredients are the main components of the formula.
  • For ingredients with a concentration lower than 1%, there is no strict order, and they can be listed randomly.
  • Latin and English names are used; plant-based ingredients are written with their Latin scientific names, while chemical components are listed by their English names.

By keeping this information in mind, we can make more informed choices while reading the ingredients list.

What information is found in the ingredients list

  • The main components of the product (ingredients listed at the top)
  • The active ingredients used in the product (e.g., retinol, vitamin C)
  • The allergens present in the product (e.g., limonene, linalool)
  • Ingredients that may cause sensitivity (e.g., alcohol denat, parfum)
  • Other components used in the product (e.g., preservatives, excipients)

How does reading the ingredients list help us?

By learning how to read the ingredients list, we can choose products that are most suitable for our skin. If we know that certain ingredients cause sensitivity to our skin, we can avoid them. Additionally, we can make more informed choices by diving into the details rather than relying solely on product marketing.

Looking at the ingredient list doesn’t allow us to determine whether a product contains a sufficient amount of active ingredients. This is the responsibility of formulators, and the amount of active ingredients is carefully calculated. Some active ingredients may be used in low doses as high concentrations could irritate the skin. This doesn’t mean the product is ineffective.

Furthermore, if your skin isn’t sensitive or you don’t have any allergies to certain ingredients, there’s no need to avoid allergens or ingredients that could potentially cause sensitivity.

Should everyone learn to read the ingredients list?

If you're not interested in reading the ingredient list, there's no need to force yourself. However, if you want to make more informed choices when selecting cosmetic products, learning how to read the ingredient list could be very helpful. Moreover, since the quality, stability (how long it lasts without degradation), and bioavailability (how much of the ingredient the body can absorb and use) of the ingredients used in cosmetics are also important, knowing how to read the ingredients list and having an interest in this topic will help you make better choices.

What to pay attention to when reading the ingredients list?

  • Does the product’s content match the product claims? (e.g., in a vegan product, there should be no animal-derived ingredients)
  • Does the product contain any ingredients that could irritate my skin? (e.g., if you have sensitive skin, alcohol denat should not be at the top of the list)
  • What active ingredients are used in the product? (e.g., you can identify beneficial actives for your skin through trial and error with the products you use)
  • How stable are the active forms used in the product? Can skin absorb them? (you can find this information quickly through online research, but if you’re not interested in details, you don’t have to dive into it)

Can you tell if a product is vegan from the ingredients list?

By looking at the ingredients list, you can determine whether a product is vegan. A vegan product should not contain the following ingredients:

  • Beeswax (cera alba)
  • Honey
  • Propolis
  • Snail secretion filtrate
  • Lanolin or lanolin oil
  • Keratin
  • Collagen
  • Elastin
  • Silk protein or silk amino acids
  • Squalene
  • Carmine (CI 75470, Cochineal)
  • Guanine
  • Hyaluronic acid
  • Stearic acid
  • Retinol

Of course, there are plant-based alternatives to these ingredients, and vegan products use plant-sourced raw materials.

Can we determine which products are suitable for pregnant women by looking at the ingredients list?

Yes, you can pay attention to ingredients that pregnant women should avoid or choose products specifically formulated for pregnant women. The following ingredients should not be used during pregnancy:

  • Retinoids (Vitamin A and its derivatives - retinol, retinyl, retinal, tretinoin…)
  • Hydroquinone (a skin whitening active)

Additionally, professionals often recommend the following for pregnant individuals:

  • Reduce the number, frequency, and amount of cosmetic products used
  • Opt for products with short ingredient lists, fragrance-free, rinse-off, and simple formulations
  • Avoid the use of essential oils
  • Choose products with reliable certifications (e.g., Cosmebio, Ecocert, Cosmos, Natrue)

Ingredients to avoid for sensitive skin

If you have sensitive skin, selecting the right products is crucial. By opting for products suitable for sensitive skin, you can reduce the risk of irritation. It can also be helpful to avoid the following ingredients with high irritation potential:

  • Parfum/Fragrance
  • Allergens (Amyl Cinnamal, Amylcinnamyl Alcohol, Anise Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Cinnamate, Benzyl Salicylate, Cinnamal, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, Methyl 2-Octynoate, Evernia Furfuracea Extract, Evernia Prunastri Extract, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Butylphenyl Methylpropional)
  • Some surfactants if used alone in the formula (SLS, SLES, cocoamidopropyl betaine…)
  • Some colorants (p-Phenylenediamine, CI 19140, CI 42090)
  • Some sunscreen filters (Oxybenzone, avobenzone, octocrylene)
  • Some essential oils (tea tree oil, lavender oil, peppermint oil, eucalyptus oil)

Could the ingredients list contain endocrine disrupting or carcinogenic ingredients?

This situation is simply not possible. According to the first article of the "Safety Assessment Guidelines" prepared by the Ministry of Health of the Republic of Turkey for cosmetic products:

"According to Article 6 of the Cosmetics Regulation, a cosmetic product placed on the market must be safe for human health when applied under normal conditions or under the conditions reasonably foreseen by the manufacturer, or when applied according to the recommended use conditions considering the product's presentation, labeling, usage instructions, or information provided by the manufacturer." This rule also applies to the European Union (EC) 1223/2009 Cosmetics Regulation. Therefore, ingredients used in cosmetic products in specific doses, scientifically proven to be safe, and subjected to toxicological testing, do not pose a risk to human health.

Different ingredient categories and their functions in cosmetics

In the table below, I have explained the categories of ingredients used in cosmetic products, their functions, and examples with their INCI names. This table will certainly be very helpful in your journey to learn how to read ingredient lists.

Ingredient category Function Examples with INCI names
Solvents Helps to obtain a homogeneous mixture, dissolves actives, and stabilizes the formula. Aqua, alcohol denat, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-propanediol…
Emulsifiers Allows the mixture of water and oil phases. Cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, behenyl alcohol, PEG-100 stearate, lecithin, polyglyceryl-4-oleate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil…
Emollients Helps soften the skin. Shea butter, squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride…
Humectants Helps maintain skin moisture. Glycerine, sodium hyaluronate, propylene glycol, sorbitol, urea, sodium PCA…
Actives Performs the main function of the product. Ascorbic acid, salicylic acid,niacinamide, panthenol, retinol…
Viscosity modifiers Helps adjust the product’s consistency. Xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethylcellulose…
UV filters Protects against harmful sun rays. Titanium dioxide, avobenzone, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, zinc oxide…
Performance enhancers Enhances the product’s performance or helps improve its texture. Sodium polyacrylate, calcium sodium borosilicate, dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, cellulose…
Fragrances Gives the product fragrance.
May contain allergens.
Parfum/Fragrance
Colorants Provides color to the product. CI 77491, ultramarines, yellow 5 lake…
pH adjusters Adjusts the product’s acidic/basic balance. Citric acid, sodium hydroxide, lactic acid…
Chelating agents Increases stability by binding metal ions in the formula. Disodium EDTA, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate…
Preservatives Prevents microorganism growth and spoilage. Phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzyl alcohol

1.Eylül Eroğlu, Kozmetik Sırları Postcast https://open.spotify.com/show/7BC0bWbFzkv0Er4p4czlrF?si=d4be4a810d574ace

2.Bozzo P, Chua-Gocheco A, and Einarson A, Safety of skin care products during pregnancy. (2011).

3.Ekstein SF and Hylwa S, Sunscreens: A Review of UV Filters and Their Allergic Potential. (2023).

4.T.C. Sağlık Bakanlığı Kozmetik Mevzuatı https://www.titck.gov.tr/faaliyetalanlari/kozmetik/kozmetik-mevzuati

5.Marie C, et al., Use of Cosmetic Products in Pregnant and Breastfeeding Women and Young Children: Guidelines for Interventions during the Perinatal Period from the French National College of Midwives. (2022).https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jmwh.13428